Monday, September 28, 2020

Guide to Custom-made & Made to Measure Suits

Guide to Custom-made & Made to Measure Suits

Custom-made or made to measure terms is a very general term used for anything related to the measurement. In this blog, we are focusing on if made-to-measure suits if it is a good option for you or not?


In my opinion, M.T.M. suit is not the best option than ready to wear in many cases. The customized version is the worst option in the majority of the cases because a tailor or pattern-maker does not make your body size modification and adaptation into the existing R.TW. pattern.


To understand better, we need to know how to make the made to measure suits?

Made to measure is set-up from Ready to Wear suits. It is the same as ready to wear just taking a few measurements of your body and adapting into the ready-to-wear suit pattern; modifying those points on ready pattern makes the suit construction and shape unstable. There is a low chance of fitting in the body and be comfortable.


Many details and factors consider when making Ready to Wear pattern to work together in harmony for just one type of body shape of the people in a specific geographical area, making the pattern for the area that data collected from men's body size and shape.


But in the custom-made suiting process, they are talking about ten measurements from your body and modifying those measurements in the existing R.T.W suit pattern. Changing a few points of the ready to wear pattern will affect the balance of the jacket structure and destroy the jacket's harmony and functionality unless a master tailor does that modification and remake the pattern, which is very costly. They usually do not do that; for that reason, always outcome is compromised.


In the majority of the cases, no have tailor involvement in this process. For that reason, I do not recommend this type of suit for professionals’ wardrobe unless to order your custom-made suit in sartorial designers who have their tailoring facility and tailor-making these modifications. 


Unfortunately, custom-made suiting is very popular online, which is the inferior version of the suits' manufacturing. This kind of suit is suitable for who is not suit wearer and used once for a funeral or another occasion in one-time use or a few times a year.


Most online and offline suit tailor Vancouver suppliers do not use a tailor for the manufacturing process, especially in the pattern adaptation process, which is the crucial element. They are using a graphic designer for pattern adjustment by using a CAD system.


The impact of the 3D Scanner and Graphic Designers in Made-to-Measure suiting You may notice for body measurement some of M.T.M. suppliers using a 3D scanning machine. It is just for show purpose and no impact on made to measure suits pattern or fit. This machine is giving you the measurement of the body and cannot make a pattern or print the clothing in 3D like plastic or metal; Again, they will use only a few of those measurements data to modify the existing R.T.W. pattern. 


This machine's function is to study average body size and shape, collecting much data in a short time and establishing the average size of the men body in a specific area.


As I mentioned, Custom-made suits may work well for who has symmetrical body shape and manufacturer who are using a particular pattern for customization, and master tailor does pattern re-adjustment. The custom made suiting process is the same as re-adjusting the existing suits, like re-adjusting your older brother suit to your size.


The critical elements of the custom-made suit are fit and construction. The fit will rarely be perfect, but you have some customization options like the shape of jacket lapels, the buttons, lining, and other small details you may choose from the manufacturer's offer list to add.


Quality of Custom made (C.M) suits may vary.

Custom-made suit price varies from $300 on none brand and up to $6,000 in luxury designers. Both are using the same method to make their custom-made suit with one essential difference. In high-end sartorial designer manufacturer, when you order made to measure suit, tailor, or master tailor implementing your body size into an existing R.T.W pattern, which is perfect, all modifications will make by Taylor.


Unfortunately, most Custom Tailored Suits Vancouver suppliers manufacturing their suits in mass production suit-factories and using graphic designers to adapt your body size into the standard R.T.W pattern using C.A.D. system. It creates a significant problem because graphic designers do not know the suit pattern, tailoring, and men's body shape or suit functionality. 


They are using the C.A.D. Pattern grade graphics system and modifying the existing R.T.W pattern. They are not pattern-maker or tailor, merely graphic designers, which they call a technician.


The custom-made suite is less expensive than a bespoke garment. It’s usually more expensive than ready to wear because it includes some modifications, additional customization, and an improvement on the look. 


High-quality custom made suits; you can obtain only in sartorial designers who have their tailoring facility and tailors doing all modifications.


Another important aspect is the construction of custom-made suits. Before to order the custom-made suit you have to take in consideration the following:


  • Suits construction, made in full, half-canvassed or fused.
  • Hand-basted or machine-made canvassing on the chest, lapels, and on the collar
  • The amount of the hand-craftsmanship, and in which part of the suit.
  • The fabrics, thread count, and fabric quality.
  • Where will make the garment; this is important just because some countries have a high repetition of quality M.T.M. suits manufacturing Like Italy and England.
  • Who is taking your body measurement, tailor, men body expert, or just a salesperson takes your body measurement?

Overall, made to measure is an excellent choice for only people who have symmetrical body shape, and they are happy with the standard pattern to fit suit and want to customize their garments.

Justin Bell

Founder of SartoriaMilanesi

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